Southern California - Let’s start with the cold hard facts… Artificial grass does not save you money. Per square foot, sods, seeds, and aerating on your lawn will cost $1 per square foot. However, if you have been experiencing the drought through the last decade and your lawn hasn’t been able to live through the summer, then you’ll want to look into this process. If your installation or installer does not do these 5 key steps correctly, you will easily exceed your budget by multiples.
Phase 1: Demolition
“But it’s just dirt!” Yes! and… No!!! You will need 3-5 inches of depth between the bottom of where you will start and top of where you’d like the grass to sit. So if it is next to a concrete pad or sidewalk, then measure 3-4 inches down. It sounds easy to dig but a cubic foot of dirt weighs what a 10 year old would (76lbs). 1000sqft of 3-4inches would be about 20lbs per sqft of just dirt. Wet dirt will be easier to dig but weigh more. Dry dirt will be lighter and cheaper for the haul away but harder to dig into. This is a significant part of your cost if you are converting lawns.
Phase 2: Create Framework
Be mindful of any electrical wires, plumbing, etc. Installation involves a framework. There are two ways to manage the task. One is to dig a small outline around the perimeter of your lawn and fit in thin planks of treated wood. They are kept in position by driving what’s known as ground stakes into the planks. This approach will mean the edges of the lawn are the same height as the rest of the expanse.
If you want a slightly raised effect around the perimeter, you can secure the planks on the ground and forget about that shallow trench. You’ll still use the stakes to keep the planks in position.
Phase 3: Prepare the Ground
Once the framework is finished, the professional will fill in the space with some type of aggregate. The product may contain several different elements like one or more types of sand, granite dust made from pulverizing old granite fragments, and limestone. The exact type or grade of aggregate will depend a lot of the soil underneath and the size of your yard. Definitely double, triple check that the ground is level.
Phase 4: Install the Rolls of Artificial Grass
In between prepping the ground and rolling the artificial grass, make sure there is a weed-resistant barrier. It is often a sheet made of plastic preventing life to sprout up from the the grass. Now that you see the team has the aggregate smoothed and in place, it’s time for the turf. Most types come in rolls. By securing one end of the roll to the frame, it’s easier to create lines of turf. During the process, the turf is stretched, much like the way carpet is stretched as it’s put in position. The professional will seal the seams between the rolls, creating what appears to be a perfect field of natural grass. One visual trick here is to point the grains of the blades toward the main viewing angle. It will help the grass look more natural.
Phase 5: Brush and Finish
Once the grass is nailed down with lawn spikes, spread out the turf blades. Use a professional turf brush with stiff bristles to fluff up the blades. Green silica sand should have been applied by the professional during installation. You may use the brush or a broom to spread the silica sand evenly over the artificial grass.
